Where

Il buco della suora is at Dorsoduro 2658 on Calle Degolin, a short walk up Calle Lunga from Campo San Barnaba. Despite being tucked between lively Campo Santa Margherita, San Barnaba and Zattere, it’s a quiet, secret area of good restaurants, pasticcerie, antique bookshops, design studios. All Venetians know the Pasticceria Colussi and Osteria ai 4 Feri, both of which are on Calle Lunga San Barnaba.

From Venice Marco Polo

(by water)

Come out of the terminal, cross the road, turn left.  Follow the covered walkway to the Alilaguna vaporetto terminal. Tickets to Venice are €18 one-way and there are a couple of choices:

  • Linea Arancio to Ca’ Rezzonico (our local stop on the Grand Canal). The quickest and easiest option. Boats leave every half hour between 8.15 and midnight. It takes just over an hour.  This route brings you up the Grand Canal and under Ponte di Rialto, a spectacular way to arrive. Once disembarked it’s a straight line to us, no bridges. Walk up the only available street – Calle del Traghetto – which quickly turns into Calle Lunga San Barnaba. Turn left onto Calle Degolin.
  • Linea Blu to Zattere. Every half hour between 9 and midnight. Longer, at 1 hour 40 minutes, stopping at Murano and Lido. Its one benefit is a glimpse of Piazza San Marco. Disembark, turn left on Zattere, right onto Fondamenta Nani which becomes Fondamenta Priulli. Left over the bridge at Taverna San Trovaso, follow Toletta, cross the bridge (it becomes Calle Lotto), emerge through a sotoportego into Campo San Barnaba. Turn left, follow Calle Lunga San Barnaba two hundred feet, left into Calle Degolin.
  • Water Taxi to Campo San Barnaba. Expensive, but perhaps not prohibitively so if you have 5 people (once you’ve added up the vaporetto fares). They leave from the same place as the Alilaguna boats.

degolingrid5

(by bus)

  • ATVO Aerobus to Piazzale Roma. Tickets (€8) from the ATVO counter in the arrivals hall. Exit the terminal, cross the road, the bus stop is right there. It’s 15 minutes into Venice, by far the quickest, easiest (but least romantic) way if you know where you’re going and you don’t have heavy suitcases. Once off the bus, things get trickier. We are close, but there are several turns and bridges. If you don’t know your way, you’ll likely need help. This is the same route taken by the taxis, except they cost €40 with no discernible difference in time or experience.  If you’re unlucky enough to arrive at Venice Treviso, take the ATVO Aerobus (tickets from the machine or counter – €10). 50 minutes to Piazzale Roma.

(by private road taxi)

  • Contact us ahead of time to have Manuel meet you at either airport carrying one of those little signs with your name misspelled on it. His vehicle can take up to 9 people. From Marco Polo it’s €75 right to San Basilio, the secret drop off point a few hundred meters from Calle Degolin. From Treviso it’s €95.

Local Transportation

Vaporetto – three stops nearby:

  • Ca’ Rezzonico is on the 1 line, which runs up and down the Grand Canal. It’s the perfect tourist boat. Stop everywhere, see everything.
  • San Basilio is just round the corner on Zattere. It’s on the 2 line, which runs along the Giudecca Canal from San Zaccaria (by Piazza San Marco) to Piazzale Roma and the train station. Can be a handy way to get to the bus or train, because it avoids the Grand Canal. It’s also on the 6 line, for the boat to Lido.
  • Zattere is a little further along Zattere from San Basilio. It’s on all sorts of lines, including the 2 and 5.1/5.2. We use it to get to Giudecca quickly, or Lido.
  • Tickets cannot be bought on board or at most stops. Expensive single tickets can be bought at ticket offices (Zattere and Accademia are near us) or tabacchi. If you’re planning to use the water and want the option of hopping on and off, consider a 1, 2, 3 or 7 day pass. Might seem steep at first, but you quickly accrue savings and have complete freedom.

Traghetto

One of the great Venetian throwbacks. A decommissioned gondola, paddled across the Grand Canal, filling the gaps between bridges. It’s quiet, unpretentious and timeless. They’ve been doing it this way for centuries. Tourists pay an outrageous €2 per trip, but it’s a unique Venetian experience. The tradition is that men stand up, and most do. There are theoretically 7 traghetti, but finding an operational one can be a struggle. Our closest – the occasional San Samuele – runs from Ca’ Rezzonico vaporetto stop. A sure bet is the one at San Tomà, a short walk away. The best crossing is from Salute to San Marco, because it’s long and the water’s choppier.

Train

  • Venezia Santa Lucia, an easy walk from us, affords one of the world’s great railway station experiences. Step outside and you are immediately greeted by the Grand Canal, with the green dome of San Simeone Piccolo behind it. Trains don’t run to the airport, but they go everywhere else. Padova, Vicenza, Milano, Bologna, Firenze, Roma, Napoli. Night trains to Paris, Brindisi (for ferries to Greece) or Napoli are particularly atmospheric.

•••

DORSODUROMAP

2658 Dorsoduro, Calle Degolin, Venezia

Google Maps, here